History of 20th Century Fashion: December 2010

EIGHT SUBCULTURE FASHION OF 20TH CENTURY THAT STILL AFFECTS THE 21ST CENTURY RUNWAY

1. ZOOT SUIT
A Zoot suit is a suit with high-waisted ,wide-legged, tight cuffed, pegged trousers. The coat is very long characterized with wide lapels and shoulder pads that accentuates very broad shoulders. The timeline of this subculture trend is 1930's and 1940's. The trend comes from African, Latino, and Italian Americans. Often the suit was worn with a watch chain dangling from the belt to the knee, then back to the side pocket. The suit was worn with pointy french style shoes and a felt hat with a long feather. Wearing the suit represented freedom, rebellion, and self determination.


The Original Zoot suit of the early 1940's

Hader Ackerman, Zoot Suit, 21st. Century Style- Wide Shoulders, full at knee, tapered at the ankle


John Galiano, Zoot Suit, 21 Century Runway	, Trouser leg is30 inches at knee and 6 inches at ankle

2. BEATNIK STREET FASHION- 1950'S AND 21ST CENTURY RUNWAY

This was an American street trend coined "beatnik" by a San Francisoc columnist, to describe the young beat generation. This subculture favored wearing all black. Like goths, they had a tendency to be interested in philosophy. Men favored goatee's or sideburns. Women wore their hair long and straight or in a bob. The costume were very simplistic: a black turtleneck, a black beret, sunglasses, skinny black jeans, capri pants, or black pencil skirts black skirts or tights and black shoes. They enjoyed poetry readings, coffee shops, and aspiring artist.

The 1950's Beatnik subculture wearing a black beret,a long black turtleneck, and black pants were the first generation to wear all black.


YSL Fall 2010 21st century beatnik model wearing all black dress, black boots and black gloves to resemble sleeves.


YSL Fall 2010 Beatnik interpretation. Poet collar White shirt wit a black jacket and black skirt with black shoes, with black gloves

3. TEDDY BOY STREET TREND VS. RUNWAY 21ST CENTURY

This subculture emerged from London in the 1950's which reflected fashion styles worn by dandies in the Edwardian period. The name came from a 1953 newspaper that shorted the word Edward to Teddy which then was coined "Teddy Boy." This fashion rapidly spread to America with rock and roll music showing the fashion. This fashion subculture was the first youth group in England to differentiate themselves as "teenagers." Thus, creating the youth market which came to America. There was a connection with gangs and violence associated with the street trend.


Teddy Boys 1950 London, England Style


Teddy Boy 21st Century- Adam Kimell, Fall RTW 2009 and Come des Carcion, Fall, 2006

Teddy Boy-Chanel-Spring-2011, Dark Trimmed Jackets

4. THE MOD MOVEMENT- 1960'S VS. 21 CENTURY RUNWAY
This fashion movement originated in the England and was characteristic of young people who listened to modern jazz music. They also liked pop music, African American Soul, British beat music and R&B. They were known to do drugs and stay at night clubs all night long. The term mod derives from the word modernist to describe jazz music and fans. The men wore slim-cut suits and the women wore simple clothes and short hair.


The Ultimate Mod- Twiggy 1960's- Simple clothing and short bobbed hair

21st Century Mod by Cynthia Rowley, Spring, 2011, Simple dress with short hair


Mod-21st. Century- Michael Kors- Spring 2011, RTW, Simple dress

5. HIPPIES OF 1960'S VS. 21 CENTURY RUNWAY
The hippie culture arose out of America and spread to other countries rapidly. These young people lived in NY Greenwich Village and the San Francisco's Haight-Ashbury district. Similar to the Beatnik generation these young people listened to psychedelic rock, used drugs and were into free sex. Woodstock Festival and Summer of Love were the two famous festivals of this subculture. They bought used clothing at thrift shops and made garments by hand. They loved headbands, sandals, tie-dyed clothing, beading , embroidery, crochet, and fringed garments. Low rise jeans arose from this movement and is still seen today. Hippies avoided makeup and only wore their hair natural.


1960's original Hippie look- Thrift store look with hand made patchwork quality. Bell bottom pants for men with sandals were common. Free flowing hair wrapped in scarves for both men and women are typical hippie style.


Hippie 21st Century- Marc Jacobs- Spring 2011. Freeflowing dress andLong natural hair with a flower in it.

Hippie- Aquelano, E. Rimondi.Spring-2011.Peace Child Look

6. DISCO- 1970'S VS. 21ST. CENTURY RUNWAY
Disco is a genre of dance music that originated in American and which the clothing is an extended from this music. Its roots stemmed from African American, gay, and psychedelic party goers of NYC and Philadelphia. Disco music performers are Donna Summer, The Bee Gees, KC and the Sunshine Band, and the Jacksons. The music led to freedom of expression which is shown by the clothing that the disco generation wore. Shiny fabrics were very popular because it would reflect light on the dance floor. Farrah Fawcett is the hairstyle most people remember. Hot pants became popular which are now called daisy dukes.


Disco, 1970's American fashion, Shiny one piece jumpsuits

Disco-Marc Jacobs- Spring-2011-Shiny Fabrics


Disco-Marc Jacobs-Spring-2011-Shiny fabrics and hot pants (Daisy Dukes)

7. PUNK SUBCULTURE-1980S VS. 21ST. CENTURY RUNWAY

Punk emerged in the UK in 1976. Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren's clothing store,Sex, in London sold the first real punk clothing. Spiked hair, deliberately offensive t-shirts, fake blood, spiked belts, anarchist symbolism, BDSM fashions, studded and spiked jewelry, safety pins in clothes and body piercings are identified by the punk subculture. Dr. Marten boots, tight leather pants, trousers with leopard patterns were also the norm. Hair was often dyed bright unnatural colors. Punk bands such as Prima Donna made the clothing even more intriguing.


Punk fashion in the 1970's

Punk-David Koma MA student Fall 2009-Bondage cuffed shoes, Bondage Dress


Punk, Alexander Wang, Fall, 2008, Ripped Stockings

8. HIP HOP- 1980'S VS. 21ST CENTURY RUNWAY

This artistic culture is rooted with American's urban communities of NYC. Graffiti is rooted with this culture and rap music and its form of dancing and particular styles of dress being associated with its roots. Run-D.M.C. is a musician whose music reflects hip hop. Oversized jeans hanging ay below the wearers underwear and lots of gold chains.This was the first time that sportswear became common place to wear all day even when not doing any sporting activities. The South Bronx hip-hop culture has spread around the world. Every day housewives were sporting clothing just to be comfortable but still have that cool look instead of wearing tight jeans.


Hip-Hop 1980's Sportswear in surburbia

Hip-Hop, Chanel-Summer-2009 Gun Shoes

Hip-Hop, Commes de Garcon- Spring 2009- Everyday sportswear worn for simple comfort.

TWO 21ST CENTURY STREET TRENDS VS. HIGH FASHION RUNWAY

1. STEAMPUNK

Steam Punk Convention held in 2006

Steam Punk, Christian Dior, Fall, RTW, 2010- Top Hat, Riding jacket and Bustle Skirt in back


John Galliano, Spring 2010, Steampunk, with top hat and steamy Neo-Victorian Skirt

This fashion is popular with goth, punk, gamers and industrial music fans. S, teampunk tends to have its fashion influenced by the Victorian Era. This fashion influence can be seen with music fans of Abney Park, Sunday Driver and Doctor Steel which is an industrial hip-hop opera" bands. Also Vernian Process, Unextraordinary Gentlemen, The Wet-Glass RO and musical storytelling of Escape the Clouds and Volitair. This type of street style is found by the use of gowns, corsets, petticoats, and bustles. Men might wear suits with vests, coats and spats or military inspired garments. The fashion could be accentuated by timepieces, parasols, googles, and ray guns.

2. LOLITA FASHION

This fashion in is primarily influenced by Queen Victoria and is a fashion subculture. Mostly Americans are not into this fashion but it is Japan that is making this fashion worldwide by adding gothic and original design elements to the look. The fashion is a knee length skirt or dress, a headdress, blouse, petticoat, knee high socks, rocking horse or high heel platform shoes. This movement started in the late 1970's. Lolita's listen to bands such as Malice Mizer and Visual Kei. Still very popular in Japan, American designers are influenced by this adorable fashion.