Saturday, October 2, 2010

Tailoring vs. Draping in the 21st Century

Draping or Tailoring are two different ideas.
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2011

Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2011
     Draping is the means of where courturier drapes the 3D human body with a 2D fabric and using gravity to the art by using a combination of cuts, folds, and tucks to transform a featureless textile into a piece of artwork. Renaissance art often used the draping and folds of fabric to transform fabric into beautiful folds of a gorgeous gown. All draping is started at a point and is turned into flat, cylindrical and conical surfaces which leave the body at a corner along an edge or along a curve. The following pictures are all 21st fashion either Spring/Summer 2011 collections or Resort 2011 collections of different designers
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2011
Rick Owens-Spring/Summer 2011
This designer, Rick Owens uses draping in a very feminine and elegant way.

Original First Dandy- Known for tailored fashionable clothing and Playboy
Tailoring goes back in history to the 1800's when the classic playboy George Bryan Beau Brummell epitomized the world's first and original dandy. The world looked to him for his elegant style and expertise on etiquette and fashion. Brummell's  preoccupation with pose and appearance was an excellent example of aristocratic decadence.

     Today, Contemporary tailors like Timothy Everest, Charlie Allen and Richard Anderson set the standards for the 21st Century Dandy. They choose to work at Spitalfields, Islington, and Savile Row. They still dress men of power with a more traditional approach.  Richard James, Ozwald Boateng, Mark, Powell, and John Pearse are men's tailors to the celebrities. Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood are using tailoring methods without formal strict rules. John Galliano is more of a Neo-Modernist style that uses denim for suits, shirting fabrics for linings. His form is usually tighter and sharper and leaner than the nom.
 
     The contemporary monochrome suit may be ultimately made for function but still some designers collections of tailored suits can still be imagined being in the creative society in the cafes of Soho and Mayfair.
Here is some designers from their Spring/Summer 2011 or Resort 2011 collection.
Alturzarra Spring/Summer 2011
Gucci-Spring/Summer 2011
 Altuzarra Spring/Summer 2011
Chanel-Spring/Summer2011
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2011

Versace Resort 2011

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